Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (2024)

Ad Feedback

By Alice Pfeiffer, CNN

6 minute read

Published 5:03 AM EDT, Mon July 1, 2024

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (1)

Alexis Stone attends the Balenciaga Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2025 show as Miranda Priestley from 2006 movie "The Devil Wears Prada."

Editor’s Note: CNN Style is one of the official media partners ofParis Fashion WeekandHaute Couture Week. See all coveragehere.

Paris CNN

Since the 19th century, haute couture has been bringing together both ancient craftsmanship and the evolving needs of clients, as social backdrops shift and change, aiming to provide a rarefied elegance for the happy few who can afford it. “Couture serves to maintain France’s excellency on a world map, both in terms of creation and know-how, also serving as a conservatory of traditions inherited from as far back as Louis XIV” explained Alice Litscher, professor at Paris’s Institut Français de la Mode in an interview.

In the wake of last week’s Haute Couture Fashion Week and in the midst of the decisiveFrench elections, a general sense of unrest is palpable in the country. Even though politics have been increasingly present on the ready-to-wear runways, the couture collections reflect focus back on the garments, offering quiet excellence for some, and a — much-needed — space for fantasy for others.

Practical reality

A few weeks after Chanel announced thedeparture of creative director Virginie Viard(who took over Karl Lagerfeld’s position in 2019), the house unveiled a new collection — albeit designed by the studio. Presented in the grandiose Opera Garnier, it explored elegance in a hushed, restrained manner, safely building on the well-established, transgenerational style vocabulary of the house: Richly embroidered and bejeweled pastel tweeds, skirt-suits embellished with ruffled sleeves, long dress-coats, hair pulled back with oversized black bows and, fittingly, considering the venue, opera capes aimed at a clientele who travels, dines, but might not cherish social-media-ready pieces.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (2)

Without a creative director, Chanel's latest couture show was designed in-house by a team.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (3)

The collection explored refined elegance.

At Patou, the “Rose” collection also suggested a quiet sense of elevation. “This season, I want the Patou woman to be committed, but not necessarily to have the appearance of her commitment… I want her to be fresh before anything,” said creative director Guillaume Henry backstage — perhaps suggesting a move away from the performative activism of recent years. He showcased candy and floral toned daily pieces, tailored denim, functional knitwear, shirt dresses, a play on accessories with neck scarves and gold detailing, saying his work at Patou is “the alliance of elegance, form, simplicity and joy.” As show notes underline, this era is a sensible one: “Patou’s Rose is a collection grounded in reality: a practical one.”

Entering their Villain Era

Swiss psychoanalyst Carl Jung developed the concept of a “shadow self,” the dark facet to every identity:“One does not become enlightened by imagining figures of light, but by making the darkness conscious,” the philosopher wrote. That notion, also known in modern parlance as “entering a villain era” has become surprisingly popular on TikTok, and also ran through several collections.

At Charles de Vilmorin, for a collection entitled “Rêveuse Bourgeoise” (Dreamy Bourgeoise), the show was set up as a play, filled with visual elements fit for fairy tales or “commedia dell’arte” (Italian comedy) plays: a rodent mask, feathers aflame, drapes and capes; each seeming to evoke a grandiose baddie fit for a historical drama. Gowns with the flair of theater costumes (a distinct departure from his ready-to-wear garments) turned haute couture into an escape from reality.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (4)

Skull masks were a morbid conclusion to Robert Wun's sartorial musing on the lifecycle.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (5)

Ideas of flesh and decay were brought to the runway.

At Robert Wun, on the other hand, each silhouette evolved to a different element. For his tenth anniversary, the designer presented a collection revolving around time, showing cycles of life, metamorphosis, death even; playing with the darker facets of the human experience (including a full skull mask). Decaying flowers, flesh, bones and skulls were all referenced in the collection and textiles, celebrating the multifaceted, transient nature of life.

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow/Getty Images) Kristy Sparow/Getty Images Related article Thom Browne’s latest couture showing is a sporty spectacle

Science meets nature

For some designers, couture is also a laboratory of experimentation — includingIris Van Herpen, who combined savoir-faire in areas including technology, science and art.

The designer showed aerial sculptures featuring models embedded in the garments and hung to the wall.The collection also included pieces replicating the effects of waves on the sand and sea, dresses that played with a gradient of pearls (some sculpted with a heat gun) and a process fusing organza with 3D printing and lace. These creations are the result of a discussion with French chemist Emmanuel Farge from Institut Marie Curie:“aboutthe primal organisms within the sea 700 million years ago and how they have changed our senses (and what we) experience today” said the designer during the presentation, elaborating upon how nature informs her sensitivity and creative eye.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (7)

Models at the Iris van Herpen show were mounted to the wall.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (8)

Models hung like the fossilized artifacts which inspired the collection.

In a similar vein,ArdAzAeiexplored how geometry and mathematics reveal rhythms of nature, imagined byBahareh Ardakani, founder and artistic director of the house. She played with some notions of quantum physics and their potential visual impact, and explored how multiple dimensions of string theory, laid flat, can look like flower petals. This was materialized in silk and satin petals on envelope skirts, fishtailed gowns, both geometric and natural, crystals arranged in floral compositions and via the use of double embroidery for a “big bang effect of light exploding from a dress” she said.

Conceptual couture

Viktor and Rolf’s “Haute Abstraction” collection looked, as show notes pointed out, to “express a certain absurdism.” Evoking their “Atomic Bomb” collection from 1998, it played with geometrical shapes, squares and spheres, both childlike and conceptual. “We were thinking of something abstract, like boxes, cubes, balls, and combining them with the human body. When we are in the mood for abstraction, we get a feeling of freedom… There is no interpretation, but a moment of space,” said the duo backstage, adding that this was achieved in “very couture-oriented materials” such as silk duch*esse, Lurex and jacquard.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (9)

Viktor & Rolf's latest show was a musing on Cubism, geometry, and everything in between.

In a different vein, designer Rahul Mishra’s collection, “Aura,” quoted mysticism and the universe for a spiritual, experimental take on fashion.“It’s…all about creating something intangible, something we know exists, but we cannot see” he said backstage. The statuesque, surrealist silhouettes were created with metal structures and glass elements, all contrasting with embellishment and hand embroidery, and all made in India, where the designer lives. The color black used throughout the pieces designates “a condensation of all colors, mystery, infinity,” he explained.

Air purifiers on the street in the Olympic Village in Saint Denis, France, on Monday, April 15, 2024. The OlympicVillage, north of Paris, will be an eco-quarter where all buildings under eight floors will be made from wood and glass, and all energy will be sustainably sourced viaheat pumpsand renewables. Photographer: Nathan Laine/Bloomberg via Getty Images Nathan Laine/Bloomberg/Getty Images Related article No AC but the ‘greenest’ ever Games? Inside Paris’ landmark Olympic Village

Sporty elevation

With the approach of the Olympic Games, Dior jumped on the occasion “This défilé represents an extraordinary opportunity to combine couture and sportswear with classicism, rebellion, collective energy” the show notes report, and in front of a fresco of women athletes, the show paid tribute to “sportives,” with peplum elements, draping, silk dresses, skirts that revealed draped trousers, as well as moiré jacquard, for a sporty, effect and sense of a body in motion.

For Balenciaga, (also notable for drag queen Alexis Stone’s appearance impersonating Miranda Priestley from 2006 movie “The Devil Wears Prada”), the show was an occasion to merge founder Cristobal Balenciaga’s DNA with “a tribute to subculture codes,” including a hand-dyed faux fur coat in synthetic hair; a knitted, embroidered goth maxi dress featuring black upcycled beads and jackets worn tied around the hips reworked into trousers — all elevating the often mundane.

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (11)

The sheath dress at Jean Paul Gaultier was made from 42,000 hook and eye fastenings.

And, as every year, Jean-Paul Gaultier invited a new designer to present under his name. This time head of Courrèges Nicolas Di Felice, known for his sporty, techno-inspired wear, showed a minimalist collection, evoking a sporty, contemporary life-gone-couture. This included a sheath dress in tulle held together with 42,000 hooks and a trompe-l’œil dress, each model with sheathed face, asking, perhaps, for anonymity… Something scarce in 2024.

Ad Feedback

Ad Feedback

Ad Feedback

Ad Feedback

Ad Feedback

Ad Feedback

Modern day villains & deceptive celebrity cameos: This was Paris Couture Week | CNN (2024)


Is haute couture meant to be worn by everyone explain? ›

In essence, a couture gown is the movie ideal of a garment - an average person may never be able to achieve it, but it provides an aspirational dream. It is meant for the ultra-wealthy, and yet it keeps artisans in the business.

Which designer do costume historians agree was the first couturier in France? ›

Born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, on 13 October 1825, Charles Frederick Worth would make his name in Paris as the founder of the House of Worth, and the man who revolutionised the business of fashion.

What qualifies as couture? ›

Couture is any fashion piece that's handmade and one-of-a-kind. However, haute couture is high fashion clothing or also known as high-dressing made by atelier / fashion houses regulated by the French government.

Does couture still exist? ›

This is why couture shows always take place in Paris because it is the birthplace and heart of haute couture. These first couture houses still exist today under the leadership of modern designers. However, custom clothing is no longer their main source of income.

Who was the first couture designer? ›

The couturier Charles Frederick Worth is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry.

Who was the first costume designer? ›

Costume design has a very long history. The ancient Greek playwright Aeschylus, who lived in the 5th century B.C., created specific costumes for actors to wear when performing his tragedies. In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, scenery and costumes became increasingly important elements of stage plays.

Who started fashion in Paris? ›

History of French Fashion

French fashion history's influence began during the reign of King Louis XIV, the Sun King, whose appreciation for fashion and extravagance firmly developed fashion as an industry and made the country a center of the textile trade at the end of the 17th century.

Does anyone wear haute couture? ›

There are roughly 4000 high-profile clients worldwide who actively partake in the industry. As head stylist and owner of image consultancy Style Made Simple, Allison Berlin shares that haute couture is a rarity but still utilized worldwide.

What is the purpose of haute couture? ›

The term is sometimes used to refer exclusively to French fashion; more often, it refers to any unique stylish design made to order for wealthy and high-status clients. The term can refer to: -The fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions.

Is haute couture ready-to-wear? ›

Haute couture is synonymous with exclusive craftsmanship, tailored for a select clientele seeking personalised luxury. In contrast, ready-to-wear fashion offers mass-produced designs for a wider consumer base.

Is haute couture still relevant? ›

The age-old practice of haute couture, spanning nearly two centuries, holds a significant place in the modern fashion narrative, and its history is pivotal to understanding its contemporary relevance.

Top Articles
Latest Posts
Article information

Author: Edmund Hettinger DC

Last Updated:

Views: 5741

Rating: 4.8 / 5 (58 voted)

Reviews: 81% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Edmund Hettinger DC

Birthday: 1994-08-17

Address: 2033 Gerhold Pine, Port Jocelyn, VA 12101-5654

Phone: +8524399971620

Job: Central Manufacturing Supervisor

Hobby: Jogging, Metalworking, Tai chi, Shopping, Puzzles, Rock climbing, Crocheting

Introduction: My name is Edmund Hettinger DC, I am a adventurous, colorful, gifted, determined, precious, open, colorful person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.